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Meet The Father-Of-Two Casually Surfing 80 Ft Waves Like It’s Nothing

Meet The Father-Of-Two Casually Surfing 80 Ft Waves Like It’s Nothing

World's best day job.

Hamish Kilburn

Hamish Kilburn

"I reckon I have different fears to what other people have," said British surfing legend Andrew Cotton. "I will happily stand on my board at the bottom of a huge wave, which would probably scare most other people. But put me on a bike riding down a hill at speed and I will freak out."

The father-of-two has spent most of his life standing on a piece of fibreglass carving through treacherous conditions. We caught up with Andrew when he was in Nazare, north Portugal - a familiar setting that is etched into his memory as both heaven and hell. "It's where you can be your most scared but it's also where your ultimate dreams can come true," he said. "It's here where you can finally catch the waves you once doodled all over your school books."

"You're not thinking about surfing itself," Andrew said when explaining what's going through his mind when he is at the bottom of huge wave. "Instead, you're thinking about flow and techniques. Of course, there's a bit of you that wonders 'what happens if I fall' but really your mind is fixed on completing the ride." One of his biggest moments of his career to date was when he and surfing pal Garratt McNamara (world record holder) travelled to Nazare in 2013. Here's what happened.


Video credit: YouTube/EpicTV

Andrew is now on a quest to discover unsurfed locations while also hoping to one day break the world record for riding the biggest wave. So far, he has managed swells up to 80ft.

Initially, he focused on helping to pioneer big wave spots in Ireland, but he later turned his attention to Nazare.


Image credit: Andrew Cotton

The pro surfer surrounds himself with the best guys in the industry to ensure that his safety always comes before breaking records. "Things can go from good to bad reasonably quickly so I always hope and expect the best while also preparing for the worst," he explained. "For me, it's all about surfing the next wave. Anyone can go out and throw themselves at it. But you won't last very long if that's how you approach the sport. It's all about knowing the times and learning the terms before you go for it."

To successfully achieve his goal, careful planning off the water is just as important as riding the wave in the heat of the moment.

When we asked him about the three things he couldn't surf without, it wasn't a surprise to hear that his board was the first on his list.

As well as the obvious, though, is his £700 watch. The depth meter feature on the G-Shock allows him to find new surfable locations. "To pursue big waves, you need really deep water going into really shallow shores," he explained. "The compass on the watch is great because it tells me how dramatic a change of depth is below my board and I."


Image credit: Nick Mangos

Andrew mixes cardio and yoga into his gym routine, replicating similar movements that he uses when out on the bay. The pro believes that working with a personal trainer as opposed to working out on his own has pushed him further than he could've pushed himself. "Having someone there to motivate me ensures that I complete every set and continue to push myself that bit harder," he explained. As well as physical training, mentally visualising his on-water sessions allows him to channel his focus on setting and smashing goals.

I think we can all agree that a day in the life of a pro surfer sounds awesome!

"What are we doing today, dad?"

"The same thing we do every day, son, going to the beach, catch some waves and make it home in time for tea!"

But life wasn't always this way.

When he left school, Andrew chased his dreams to spend as much time as he could on the water. Living in North Devon, which is well-known for its incredibly fresh swells, Andrew went to work in the surf industry making boards. Although it allowed him to train in his spare time, the job lacked financial stability. "While my mates were buying houses and cars, I was generally skint," he explained.

His dad told him to sort his life out. He started a career as a plumber. The mighty had fallen and soon Andrew didn't even have time to go surfing. The Gods of the sea called endlessly for him but their bellowing was left unanswered as he was too busy fixing toilets and kitchen sinks.

Deciding that he would rather be happy than financially secure, the thrill seeker put down his tools and picked up his board again. After all, life is for the living.

Since then, Andrew secured a number sponsors, which has helped him to put Great Britain firmly on the surfing map.

Preparing for another winter of waves reaching 100ft in height, he is continuing to train hard with the aim to smash the current world record (100ft wave).

In the meantime, the ocean remains his playground.

Featured image credit: PA

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