Every great surfer has ‘the one’ – a towering, near-mythical slab of water that provides the opportunity for them to ride the wave of a lifetime.
For Red Bull athlete and big wave surfer Conor Maguire, however, there was no need to go storm chasing down in Australia or in Portugal for a dream wave, as on October 28, 2020, his ‘one’ came right to his doorstep in Mullaghmore, County Sligo, arriving with such intent that he could hear the waves rocking the shoreline from his pillow back home.
A combination of freakish currents caused by tropical Hurricane Epsilon and Covid travel restrictions meant that Maguire was able to have a private audience with Mother Nature at her fiercest and, crucially, come out on top. Watched on by his safety team (four on jet-skis, two using binoculars from land, and one paramedic), riding the monstrous 60ft wave felt like the culmination of a goal he’d had ever since first picking up a board at age 11.
Now, with the country coming out of the worst of the pandemic, and looking back at his feat, the 28-year-old Red Bull athlete believes it was as much his philosophy and focus as it was his technical skills that meant he was able to tame he biggest wave ever recorded in Ireland.
Conor’s reflective, glass half full philosophy on sport, life, managing pressure and holding focus will give you a mid-semester pep in your step you didn’t know you needed!
Surfing Ireland’s biggest ever wave was unreal
“I was really nervous the night before that big swell in late 2020. I could hear the waves rumbling like thunder from my house. I’d been waiting for a forecast like that since I started surfing Mullaghmore and couldn’t really believe the numbers on the charts. I arrived at the harbour before dawn to tidal surges pushing the whole way up onto the road and bouncing off hotel doors – something I’d never seen before. Having such an amazing safety team present meant I could just focus on surfing the best waves of my life.”
Visualisation played a big part
“When I was towed out on the water, I felt super scared. I closed my eyes and began imagining what I would do on the wave, and from that moment I was fully immersed in the experience, I totally embraced it as I knew I’d most likely never be in a position like that again. After surfing the wave, I was in shock at how amazing the view had been; it was a total sensory overload and to share that moment with all my mates was really special.”
An ice bath really helps to train the mind
“I took a Wim Hof Method [Cold therapy] workshop a few years ago and discovered it was a good way to become comfortable in uncomfortable situations. There was a good cross-over with paddling around in unruly seas trying to pick out a good wave among the chaos. Of course, if you’re not keen on plunging into an ice bath yourself, there are plenty of alternative methods to improve focus. I would recommend sticking your phone on airplane mode for 10 minutes and working on breathing in through your nose and out through your mouth to start with.”
Pressure comes with the territory
“I've felt pressure to succeed from a young age but luckily I’m passionate about what I do. Surfing gave me purpose and I love trying to improve each session. I've always had the gut instinct that if I kept working hard and enjoyed myself in the process then I'd achieve my own personal goals. If you feel overwhelmed, try switching switch off. Taking a few minutes to try and declutter your brain can be really helpful when you have a lot going on, such as coursework or a big lecture. Doing nothing for a few minutes can help you refocus and can make completing tasks a little easier.”
I can be my harshest critic
“There have been times in the sea where I've had a few mental battles about whether or not to paddle for a wave that could potentially result in me getting hurt. Sometimes I'm in a headspace where I'll work through the fear and hesitation, and on heavier days I'll just leave it. I can pick my moments and be completely comfortable with that. Learning to accept and commit to your decisions can be tough at times but will generally stand you well down the line.”
High-risk situations are part of the job
“I’ve simulated high stress situations in the pool to mimic a wipe-out in the sea. The aim is to get your mind feeling comfortable in a safe and controlled environment before transferring your ability to real-life when the waves are bigger than what you’re usually comfortable with. It’s all about focusing your mind and trying to keep your heart rate relatively low.”
Surfing is so much more than a sport
“Not having a phone or other distractions out there means I’m disconnected to life on land. Surfing is incredible because it provides such a pure connection to nature and allows you to be completely immersed in its beauty and power. Being at the mercy of the ocean is both invigorating and humbling and seems to wash your worries away and ease your mind. Spending time in the sea can be social or solitary so it can fit whatever mood you're in.”
Setbacks are part of life
“I’ve had a few setbacks along the way in various forms. Things definitely don't always go to plan; it's how you react to incidents and move forward that defines you. I've dealt with a few injuries over the years and I'm currently recovering from a torn meniscus in my knee. To take time out and miss amazing swells can be borderline soul-destroying but this time I feel like I've turned something negative into a positive experience, learning more about myself. Even when life throws a curve ball at you and everything feels shit, there's usually a silver lining that you can find.”
Surround yourself with good friends and you’ll never fail
“I like surrounding myself with people that inspire me to be a better person and to work harder at what I love. Luckily my mates are really supportive. Knowing there are people you can trust and chat to is helpful. What you don’t want is peer pressure. If your friends make you feel bad for not wanting to go out before an exam or competition, then you're hanging out with the wrong people! Do what feels right for you.”
Being active gives me the time to think about what I want to achieve
“From a leisurely stroll to a cycle to a long surf, I like sticking in some headphones and thinking about random stuff and letting my brain figure out what I need to get done to achieve my goals. I will sometimes make a list of thoughts so everything is down on paper so I can physically see all the thoughts that are bouncing around my head. It’s a good way to pick out the most important thoughts and let go of others that aren't important.”
I’d tell my younger self to be proud of the small victories
“I was so determined to achieve more when I started out that sometimes I dismissed a really good wave I had caught in order to focus on a bigger picture. Looking back, I wish I was more present and fully appreciated what I was doing rather than dismissing it as not a big enough achievement. I was quite hard on myself, but taking the time to pat yourself on the back and to live in the moment is really important.”
And I’m just getting started…
Surfers like Kelly Slater and Grant Baker are big inspirations for me because they've shown incredible longevity in the sport and proved that it's not just a young person's game. Kelly recently shocked the world by winning [2022’s Billabong] PipeMasters a few days before his 50th birthday, beating people literally half his age in the process. It gives me hope that I still have a few more years left! Anyone committed to their passion, whether it be professionally or for fun, pushes me to continue bettering myself too.”
Words: Joe Ellison
Featured Image Credit: redbullTopics: Ireland